Hawaiian Islands

Archers Direct, May 2013





DAY 6: Kauai

It was not such an early start this morning. We were taking a half-day optional tour to Hanalei and were due to leave at 8.30am. Our driver was Michelle and as we set out from the hotel - this was a private Cosmos/Archers tour with just folks from our group - she told us about pineapple growing on Kauai, how there used to be two pineapple canneries and one of them has now been replaced by a resort. I don't suppose you were paying attention last time I explained pineapple growing to you, but I won't waste my complete lack of breath by telling you again.

As we drove along the coast, Michelle mentioned how the coastal path that we could see along the edge of the beach was currently four miles long and almost reached our hotel. The plan is to extend the path to about sixteen miles eventually. Unlike Oahu, on Kauai it is not possible to drive all the way around the island, as the roads to the east and west do not join.

We made a stop by the side of the road to look at a lush green valley. Michelle said this was the valley used in the opening scenes of Jurassic Park when they first see the dinosaurs. I believed her, but then, how would I know?

 

We saw guava trees and mahogany trees and we passed some lava rock construction houses - one was recently sold for about $450,000! We also passed by Seacliff Plantation, which is the only gated community on the island.

   

Our next stop was a lookout over Kiluea Lighthouse.

   

It was a great viewing spot and we parked alongside Kiluea Point National Wildlife Refuge. I managed to get some good photographs of the birds overhead.

   

Heading down to the coast we stopped at Anini Beach. It was another short stop at the waterfront. I did spot a turtle in the sea but I was too slow to get a photograph, so you'll have to take my word for it. In the distance, we could see the lighthouse we'd been looking at earlier.

   

   

We continued our drive, making a quick stop to photograph some of the State Birds - the Nene - on the golf course, then on through some fabulous scenery.

   

At the Hanalei Valley Overlook we saw Hanalei's historic one hundred year old bridge. Gene Hackman shot some of the film Uncommon Valor here and George Clooney shot parts of The Descendants - with the Tahiti Nui Restaurant being used in the latter. We also saw a bungalow which was used, in the same film, as the house of the Realtor where Clooney looked over the hedge.

   

Moving on to Hanalei Pier we could see where some of the scenes for South Pacific were shot - with Hanalei doubling for Bali Hai.

   

   

On leaving the beach, we headed back into Hanalei Town Center for a one-hour lunch stop. It was a bit dull. After about twenty minutes, it started to rain, so we spent fifteen minutes in the supermarket. We did find a deli counter in there where we could get some lunch but it took absolutely ages for the lady to make just a couple of sandwiches! We then sauntered through the town, returning back to the bus about fifteen minutes early. We weren't the only ones. The rain was getting worse!

   

We went back over the old bridge and headed for the Hanalei Taro Fields Overlook. Through the rain we could see the different stages of growth, but the rain was heavier now so we didn't stick around outside too long, just grabbed a couple of photos and legged it back onto the bus.

   

Michelle told us all about taro farming. Is it worth me telling you about it? Oh well, you can always skip ahead - or have a nap! The Federal (National) Government leased land to the Hawaiian farmers and all the taro grown has been harvested by hand for six generations. Some of the areas are also designated wildlife areas and there the protected wildlife can sometimes eat thirty percent of the crop, but the farmers still can't touch the animals.

Women make nine to ten inch deep baskets for four plants and these then bob up and down with the water level. Taro takes fourteen months before it is ready to harvest. It is a tuber (like a potato) and the fields are irrigated by raising (and lowering) the level of the water in the taro patch. After the harvest, they completely drain and then till the soil, cleaning it up. Then they raise the water level again. It has very good nutritional value and is often used to make poi - this is grey slimy stuff (or it was at the luau) and it tastes of nothing at all. Like potatoes, or rice, it is used with other foodstuffs and they provide the flavour (not convinced!) Got to say it did nothing for me (it was horrible) so I won't be growing any anytime soon. It seems the leaves can also be eaten and are like spinach (they are known as laulau). If you cast your mind back to yesterday's luau - these are the leaves that are used to wrap the pig in the imu. The stem can add moisture to a dish, while the root can be peeled, boiled, mashed and water added until it becomes the grey slime we all know and don't love! One plant gives rise to three babies it can take three days to replant. You fell asleep, didn't you?

As we drove back to the hotel, the rain began to dry up. We saw a few animals and it seems all kinds have been introduced into the islands over the years - usually with a misguided goal - hence there are a lot of feral pigs, goats and black tail deer living on the island though not native to it. There are also a lot of wild chickens, bred either for cock-fighting or as a food source, but hurricanes have scattered them into the wild. There are also feral cats, but they are generally afraid of the chickens.

Back in the town of Kapaa, just about a mile before the hotel, some folks opted to get off at Safeway to pick up supplies. However, we had booked a helicopter flight so we stayed on board and got taken back to the hotel.

Back at the hotel we only had about an hour before it was time for our second optional of the day - our Kauai helicopter ride. We just had time to eat our deli sandwiches and as the weather was now back to blue sky and sunny, we chose to sit outside in the hotel courtyard.

   

Then we took a look around the beachfront of the hotel. It was pretty nice, hence the five Teds.

   

We were picked up by the Safari Helicopters shuttle. We arrived at their office about fifteen minutes later. I was a bit concerned they wouldn't let me fly as last time I was here I had to spend the duration of the trip stuffed in a locker and not on the flight, but this time Di had me strapped on so my paws were crossed. I tried to maintain a low profile, but it wasn't long before one of their guys spotted me. I explained who I was and that I hoped to ride, and how - as a Tour Guide I'd be RATING this trip and an hour in a locker was not gonna get five Teds. He said he was okay with me riding but that it was not his decision.

There were seven of us from our group (including me) so we all got weighed and assigned a seat. Then we were given a safety briefing. Next, along with another group, we all got onto the shuttle bus again - me included! This was looking promising, but I wasn't getting my hopes up. They drove us over to the airstrip to a waiting area by several helipads - two for Safari Helicopters and some others. We waited for the Safari helicopters to return from the previous ride.

When they did, the last lot of riders passed us their life jackets. I have to say I'm not sure what use a life jacket is on a volcanic island (volanic rock being a bit harder than water) but what do I know? The humans amongst us put them on anyway - this was looking good for me as no one had said a word about me and I was nowhere near those pesky lockers! We were taken over to line up by the helicopter, in our assigned order, which designated where we would sit. Amazingly Dave and Di (and me!) got a window seat, with Paul and fellow traveller Ian on the inside rear seats. The other two would take the front seats.

   

I got onto the helicopter! This was awesome for me. It's not my first helicopter ride, but it was my first over Kauai and I remembered the ancient assistant Noreen and her friend Doreen (with whom I travelled to Hawaii last time) talking about how amazing it was. I was really excited.

Once we were all on and seatbelted in, they closed the door. The pilot explained some safety issues (like Di, don't touch that door handle or we're outta here) and then he spotted me. He asked if I'd paid for my flight. Cheek! I said, of course I had. It was Di that hadn't! Heehee. He didn't seem to have a problem with me being there so off we went! Phew!!

   

We headed out to the coast, over the Airport and past another Marriott hotel.

   

It was an awesome flight, with such a great variety of scenery, mountains and some very pretty waterfalls. I clearly can't remember everything so I'm just going to put a selection of the photographs on here - they'll never do reality justice though anyway, but to tempt you, here are some of the photographs which I'll follow up with a mini-movie I made. We also bought an official DVD of our trip which was posted to us and arrived later. It includes the pilot's commentary and is a very worthwhile souvenir.

   

     

   

     

     

     

   



Too soon it was all over and we were back on the ground. There was time for each of us to get a quick photo with the helicopter (unfortunately, I was stuck with Di on mine - wonder if I can photoshop her out? Or at least fix her hair!)

   

Kauai is stunning and by helicopter is just such an unbelievable way to see it. It wasn't a cheap option at $242 each, and then they hit us up for another $37 for a DVD of our flight (we just bought the one and hope someday it will turn up! - Update - It did, about a week after we got home!) We took a quick look around their gift shop, but we really didn't need more t-shirts so didn't buy anything. Of course, they didn't have bear-size shirts.

TGTips
Stuffies be advised - I was incredibly lucky to get the chance to fly. If you manage to persuade your humans to go to Hawaii and ride a helicopter, you'll have to be very discreet or lucky to be taken along. Good luck, cos it's definitely worth trying to fly!


A few minutes later and it was time to get back on the shuttle bus to return to the hotel. We got back in time for the hotel bar's Aloha Hour from 4pm to 7pm, with $5 beers and $6 margaritas. We decided to try the Kauai Gold beer, which was brewed on the island. It was pretty good - a stronger taste than regular lager but a pale colour. Not bad. We took it outside to drink alongside the swimming pool. Very relaxing.

   

I took a couple more photos around the hotel - anyone else singing the Hawaii 5-O theme with this boat?

   

We needed snacks for the next day so we decided to take a walk down to Safeway and the ABC Store. There are a lot of ABC Stores on Hawaii - general store and gift shops really, with food and drink and more of that tourist tat I keep talking about! A little research suggested there was a pizzeria in town and that it was BYOB - Bring Your Own Bottle - now that's our kind of restaurant. Way cheaper than having to buy the house wine. It was across the road from Safeway. A win-win.

We walked along the beachside path towards Safeway until it ran out and we headed up through the car park of a nearby hotel. Good job, as we came out directly opposite Safeway - we'd have gone right past, it wasn't very far at all. After our shopping spree, we headed (with our bottle of wine) to Bobby V's Pizzeria. They were very friendly as we went inside and got a table. The pizzas are made to order and oh, my. What great pizza it was! The base was very crunchy. At only $56 for the three of us (and $7.49 for our double-size bottle of supermarket wine) we'd had a great deal!

   

Tired after our long and hard day of touristing, we made our way back to the hotel - this time along the road. Just to be different. We headed to our rooms and, even without the power cut, we soon went to bed.

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